The best of Koh Samui

In the late morning on Koh Samui, it began to sprinkle and strong gusts were driving away the nimbus clouds as we reached Bang Makham beach for breakfast. For a mere 59 baht per person, the Po Lay beachfront eatery offers a full buffet line-up with tempting options of authentic southern-style fare such as yellow fish curry (nam ya pla), thick fish curry (gaeng tai pla) and peanut sauce (nam prik), which can be paired with a range of fresh or pickled vegetables.
Here, customers tend to enjoy stunning views of the sea and an immaculate beach from an alfresco dining area sheltered by tall native plants. However, it felt like we were being hit by a hurricane when dining outside at that time as the wind was rippling our hair in all directions and taking most of the fresh vegetables off our plates.
Interestingly, one of the delights of travelling during the rainy season is that the Sun always comes out once the rain stops. Before soaking in the turquoise waves or getting some vitamin D on the beach, my travel companions and I visited Guan Yu Koh Samui Shrine to learn more about the island’s history.
Back in 1857, Chinese migrants from Hainan landed on Koh Samui and constructed a shrine to house a revered carved wood statue of Guan Yu that they had brought from their homeland. They placed it in front of a former military camp, which had been established when the Ayutthaya kingdom expanded its dominance over many cities in the South.
It was relocated to its current site in the Hua Thanon Market area in 1935, and was restored in 2008. In 2012, the Guan Yu Koh Samui Association and local devotees poured around 20 million baht into the construction of Thailand’s largest Guan Yu monument, making it a new landmark on the island.
Based on traditional Chinese architectural styles, the compound is designed to resemble an ancient Chinese village filled with shophouses, a vintage hotel and a community museum featuring antiques that reflect the cultures of Hainan and Samui.
Stepping further, worshippers can offer prayers for prosperity, good health and guidance to the exquisitely carved wood statues of Guan Yu and Chao Mae Thabthim, which are arranged side by side.
In order to further establish itself as “Samui Chinatown”, future plans call for the construction of a library, a Mandarin language school and a Collecting Hall of Ancestors that will showcase a clan tree and pictures of relatives so that younger generations can trace their lineage.
Just a six-minute drive from the sanctuary, we decided to check in at Centara Life Lamai Resort Samui to get ourselves ready for some activities on the beach. Standing in a vibrant residential and entertainment neighbourhood of Lamai Beach, this one-time serviced apartment has been renovated into a chic middle upscale hotel, providing guests with fresh holiday experiences.
Opening in the middle of last month, it offers 61 spacious rooms in four types — Deluxe, Deluxe Balcony, Premier Loft and Family Suite, with sizes varying from 35m² to 53m², allowing guests to enjoy exceptional comfort and first-rate hospitality services at affordable prices.
With modern loft-style designs, this brand-new property uses wood accents, earth-tone shades and a collection of vintage collectables from the owner’s hidden chamber to evoke the laid-back tropical vibe of Koh Samui. Encircled by tropical greenery, the outdoor swimming pool with a waterslide is designed to resemble a waterfall in a rainforest where visitors can relax on a deck and challenge themselves to a minute of ice bathing to win a free drink.
The most preferred option seems to be the Family Suite, which has a comfortable bunk bed and a dining table in a living space, a king-size bed, a pantry corner and a bathtub. Here, all guests can take advantage of complimentary 24-hour check-in and check-out, a flexible breakfast until 4pm, and 24-hour access to a fitness centre.
From 3pm to 5pm, the hotel also offers complimentary daily snacks such as kalamae (a sticky candy made from rice flour, palm sugar and coconut milk), kluai break taek (crispy baked banana) and roasted cashew nuts from local shops. In addition, a free noodle station with a selection of toppings is available from 8pm to 10pm.
We rested for a bit before walking to Lamai Beach, which is just 400m from our hotel. There, we spent several hours swimming in crystal-clear waters and lounging on the white sands while other tourists showed off their skills on jet skis and paddle boards.
In the evening, we went back to the hotel and the Deja Brew Lifestyle Cafe had prepared a delicious chef’s table dinner in collaboration with Ban Suan Lung Khai restaurant, which is included in the Bib Gourmand list of the Michelin Guide Thailand 2024.
The meal started with yam yai (mixed salad of cabbages, Chaiya salted eggs, chicken and grape served on crispy fried wonton), steamed blue crab served with spicy seafood sauce, grilled prawn, and Surat Thani oyster served with chilli paste, fried garlic and Sri Racha sauce.
Then steamed coconut rice was served with main courses such as gaeng som (local fish cooked in yellow curry), fried spotted mackerel with fish sauce, stir-fried Malindjo leaves with egg and refreshing clear coconut soup with clams.
Based on the original recipes, Uncle Khai and his wife use fresh ingredients sourced from local fishermen. They make no compromises when it comes to adjusting the degree of spice in order to preserve the authentic flavours. This implies that those who can’t handle spice are expected to notify them ahead of time so that they can make something else.
For two nights, I stayed in a 42 m² Premier Loft room with wooden details that created a refined yet intimate ambience. It offers a large balcony with sliding doors for privacy, a comfy daybed, and a workstation with reliable Wi-Fi, plugs and USB hubs. Lying on a king-size bed, you can relax and enjoy entertainment by connecting your phone to a large smart TV. The bathroom has enough space for a separate shower and a roomy walk-in closet.
The next morning, we made our way to Baan Boran At Samui Island, which is recognised for its classic Thai-Chinese architecture. In 2019, Phinit and Arphana Phenchan from the fourth generation of the family came up with the idea to convert their house into a community museum that showcases Chinese and island culture.
“In the past, sea merchants would make stops on Koh Samui on route from Siam to the Melayu kingdom. During the reign of King Rama III, our forefathers came from Hainan and erected this house here. They exchanged commodities between China and Thailand before they started growing rice and coconut palms. Our family later decided to open a resort,” Phinit said.
Set in a shady garden, this 187-year-old wood house demonstrates local artisans’ expertise in utilising robust and flexible coral stones to make pillar bases that are resistant to termites. Its roof is covered with unique kite-like tiles made of coral stone, burned and powdered shell, and sand.
According to Chinese beliefs, the wooded grilles and walls are trimmed with a collection of exquisitely carved figures and murals designed to resemble auspicious animals, fruits and flowers like pineapple, star apple, lychee, lion, eagle, deer, carp, cranes and peony to bestow good fortune, wealth, protection, good health, longevity and eternal love upon a family.
Inside, this ancient three-storey house is decorated with a wide selection of wooden furniture, ceramicware, enamelled kitchenware, an antique flour millstone and wickerwork to illustrate daily life in yesteryear.
The ground floor features bedrooms, a living space and kitchen room, while the 2nd floor functions as a refuge connected by removable ladders. After exploring the house, visitors can take a break with fresh coconut juice and some local desserts as Phinit shows how to peel coconut shells and utilise traditional coconut graters.
Not far from Nathon beach, our sightseeing tour came to a conclusion at the Coconut Museum, run by Nuttapul Soralamb whose family owns the largest coconut plantation on Koh Samui.
“There were no coconut trees on Koh Samui prior to villagers collecting them from the sea. They learned how to choose and grow coconut trees that can withstand the soil and climate. This island’s coconuts have a substantial quantity of lauric acid, which can boost immunity and lessen allergies,” Nuttapul said.
In an effort to support fellow farmers, the Soralamb family has managed to preserve the custom of monkeys gathering coconuts and have become known as pioneers in the manufacturing of coconut oils on Koh Samui.
In recent years, people have become more concerned about their health so Nuttapul supplies virgin coconut oils to cosmetic companies in South Korea and America while developing skincare products based on coconut under the Spaco label.
Following a brief introduction to the world of coconuts, visitors can participate in creative workshops to learn how to produce their own personal coconut oil or how to make kanom kho (rice flour balls filled with sliced coconut palm sugar and served with coconut milk).
To celebrate its opening, Centara Life Lamai Resort Samui offers a special promotion this month for stays until Dec 20. It includes the flexibility of daily breakfast for two persons until 4pm, 250 baht credit on daily food and drinks, complimentary 24-hour check-in and check-out, and an additional 15% discount for CentaraThe1 members. Visit centarahotelsresorts.com/centra/csa-opening-offer.
Baan Boran At Samui is at 7, Koh Sami, Surat Thani. Admission is 150 baht. Call 092-953-8919 or visit facebook.com/baanboranatsamui (in Thai).
The Coconut Museum is at 56/5, Koh Samui, Surat Thani. Call 083-496-5656 or visit facebook.com/SpacoVirginCoconutOil.